1. Make sure your vehicle is rated for towing the load.

   You probably can’t tow an 8,000 pound full-size camper trailer with a Honda Civic. Depending upon the particular trailer you need to haul, you need to check to determine the weight limits in the owner’s manual and determine the appropriate hitch to have installed.

   • The weight should be generally specified by the manufacturer and listed in the owner’s manual. Look online if you’re missing the manual, or check at an auto shop.
   • You need to find two numbers, the gross trailer weight (GTW), which is the combined weight of the trailer and the gear on it, and the maximum tongue weight for your vehicle to determine the class of hitch you’ll need to tow the load.
2. Get the appropriate class of hitch for your load installed. Generally, you’ll get a hitch receiver installed that you can use for different size trailer hitches, for class 3 and up. These receivers include a removable draw-bar that you can use to install different sized hitches for different loads you might use.If you get the largest receiver installed on your vehicle, you’ll be ready for any sized load your vehicle can handle, classified according to the following specs:
   • Class 1: 2000 pounds GTW/200 pounds tongue weight
   • Class 2: 3500 pounds GTW/350 pounds tongue weight
   • Class 3: 5000 pounds GTW/500 pounds tongue weight
   • Class 4: 7500 pounds GTW/750 pounds tongue weight
   • Class 5: 10,000 pounds GTW/1000 pounds tongue weight
3. Get the right-sized ball for the trailer.

   The larger the ball, the more weight it can carry. Basically, the ball of the hitch will come in one of three sizes:

   • 1 ⁷⁄₈ inch (4.8 cm)
   • 2 inch (5.1 cm)
   • 2 ⁵⁄₁₆ inch (5.9 cm)
4. Attach the trailer to the vehicle.

   Use the tongue jack to raise the trailer and align it with the ball. Make sure that the hitch lock is unlocked before lowering the trailer onto the ball and securing the tongue. Cross the safety chains to the hooks near the vehicle hitch or the vehicle frame, making sure there is enough slack in the chains but not so much that they drag on the ground.

   • Using the tongue jack, try to raise the tongue off of the ball. If you are able to do this, the ball and tongue sizes do not match, or the ball is not locked properly. In this case, replace the ball with the correct size, or lock it properly and try again.
   • Once the tongue of the trailer is on the ball, you can lock it in place by placing a bolt or padlock through the ball lock mechanism to prevent it from accidentally opening.
5. Attach the lights with the wiring harness.

   Generally, these employ a simple color-coded connection that makes it easy to hook up the lights to the harness should make it easy to install the connector properly to the tow vehicle’s harness.

   • After you’ve hooked up the lights, do a quick brake check to make sure everything is functioning properly. It’s critical to make sure that your turn signals and brakes work on the back of the trailer to ensure a safe trip (as well as no traffic tickets).
   • To keep the connection from corroding, you might consider spraying the contacts with a small amount of dielectric grease.
6. Check the tongue weight.

   You want the amount of weight resting on the hitch to be roughly 10 to 12 percent of the total weight of the trailer. You can use a regular bathroom scale to place under the beam to check.

   • If the weight out-weighs your scale (which is likely for 4000 lb. and up trailers) place the scale farther up the trailer to get a smaller measurement. If you go a third of the way up, triple the weight on the scale to get the approximate weight.
   • Depending on the weight of the trailer, you might consider using an equalizing bar to even out the pressure on the hitch. These are generally long metal brackets that transfer a bit of the weight more toward your vehicle’s front axle. If you’re hauling at the upper end of the specs, use an equalizer.
7. Secure your load.

   Depending on the load you’re hauling, you might need to use a tarp to secure lose objects in boats or refuse trailers, since you’re responsible for anything that flies out and causes damage.

   • You can also take this opportunity to make sure the hitch height is set correctly, your trailer’s tires are inflated to the appropriate specifications, and that you haven’t overloaded the trailer in such a way as to negate the careful checks you’ve already performed.

1. Get familiar with the clearance of your new rig.

   Before you hit the road, get out your tape measure. Does the trailer make your rig considerably taller? By how much? How much length is added to the back of your car or truck? These will be important considerations any time you’re trying to park somewhere you normally wouldn’t give a second thought to squeezing into.

   • If it’s your first time towing a trailer, it’s best to practice some in a big empty parking lot before taking it out on the road. You want to be as familiar as possible with the vehicle’s response time and turning radius.
2. Accelerate and brake slowly.

   You must always compensate for the extra weight, especially when slowing down, and especially when driving on inclines. Play it safe and be cautious. You also need to pay especially close attention to the added length of your rig anytime you’re: #*Changing lanes

   • Merging
   • Exiting the interstate
   • Parking
   • Stopping for gas
   • Pulling over
3. Prepare for the difference in fuel economy.

   Towing a significant amount of weight will negatively effect your fuel economy, so keep a close eye on the gauge. Making frequent pull-offs in crowded gas stations can be stressful for first-time towers, so try and anticipate your fuel needs ahead of time to avoid difficult maneuvers.
4. Stop frequently and check the connection.

   Even if you checked and doubled checked your connections and everything is up to code, there’s always the possibility that something in the road will jostle the trailer lose a bit. It’s best to stop sometimes, especially on long or especially bumpy trips, to make sure everything’s still hooked up. Seeing your trailer careen off the road isn’t the time to double-check.
5. Stay calm if you take a turn too narrowly.

   It’ll probably happen eventually that you’ll mis-time a turn, or lack sufficient space to clear a turn like you figured you would. Don’t panic. Make sure there isn’t traffic behind you and back up slowly and as straight as possible to give yourself the clearance you need. Get a passenger to hop out and watch the trailer from a different angle to give you steering tips, and use your mirrors judiciously.

1. No lie: backing up a trailer is one of the most difficult driving maneuvers there is, but it’s easy to master with the right technique and a bit of smarts. To get ready, roll down your windows and kick a passenger out to act as a spotter. It might take a few runs before you get it perfect, so it helps to have another set of eyes.
2. Set yourself up for success by getting perpendicular.

   To get yourself oriented properly, pull more or less straight perpendicular to where you want the back end of the trailer to go, keeping the truck and the trailer straight. Pull past the spot by 8–10 feet (2.4–3.0 m) to give yourself adequate room to back up.

   • When you’ve got it lined up, turn your wheel opposite the direction of the parking spot. So, in other words, if you’ve pulled up perpendicular to a spot on your passenger side, enough ahead of the spot to back up, stop the car and jack the wheel to the left, or the driver’s side.
3. Learn the “S” turn.

   Basically, to get the back end of the trailer to go right, you need to make your car back up going left and then straighten it back out to avoid a jackknife. Start backing up slowly and quickly straighten the wheel back out by turning it back toward the right. Watch your back end closely and straighten it back out if your angle gets too sharp. This’ll take some practice.

   • Go extremely slowly. If you’re in an automatic transmission, the idling speed should be plenty fast to make you nervous. Use gas only sparingly and don’t make unnecessary or fast changes.
   • Avoid jackknifing. If, at any point, the angle of the truck to the trailer becomes smaller than a right angle, straight it back out and give it another go. Don’t try and force it, because it won’t work.
4. Don’t neglect your front end.

   Make friends with your side mirrors so you can keep an eye on where your front end is at all times, taking special caution to watch out for parking obstacles and bumps that might mess up your approach and be a problem when you’re trying to straighten back out. Drive like a pro and use your side mirrors.

   • Your rear-view will be basically useless in the task. Use the help of a spotter and your side-mirrors to back up correctly.

1. Park the trailer. It should be in a level area with good footing for the horse, and with enough space for you to easily access all the doors.

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2. Perform a trailer safety check. Here’s an example of a safety check you could do:http://www.whmentors.org/saf/trailer01.html

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3. Load everything you need. This might include tack, feed, grooming supplies, camping gear, etc. It’s a good idea to include spares or more than you think you need in case you underestimated or something gets broken or stolen.

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4. Bring along some hay. Most trailers have containers for hay; it’s also a good idea to bring along a hay net if your horse will need to stand around (as would be the case if you’re going to a horse show).

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5. Halter your horse. The halter should be leather – if there’s an emergency, it will break. Put shipping boots or wraps on your horse’s legs, and consider using a face guard and/or head bumper, or a light sheet if it’s cold.

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6. Load the horse in the trailer. If you are using a side by side style trailer load the horse in the left hand stall of the trailer, as it will tow more safely if the heavy side of the trailer is in the center of the road. If you are using a slant load trailer load the horse in the front stall; the trailer will generally balance better. Simply lead him in and then exit through a side door; ask a friend to help you guide the horse into the trailer and to observe in case of an accident.

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7. Tie your horse to tie rings. Use a trailer tie with a quick release snap, hook it to the tie ring on the halter and the tie ring on the trailer, and remove his lead rope so he does not become tangled in it.

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8. Close the bar behind your horse. You should also close all drop down windows, rear doors, side doors and tack room doors, double checking to make sure everything is latched tight and won’t pop open while you’re driving.

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9. Open air vents on windows and doors. Do this as needed to keep plenty of air moving through the trailer, as horses put off a lot of heat and moisture as they breath. A hot, wet trailer is not comfortable or healthy for the horse!

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10. Do one last check. Places to check include doors, wheels, and the hitch; make sure nothing is amiss and no tools, lead ropes, etc. have been left on the ground or trailer fenders, or are leaning on the trailer.

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11. Drive gently! Take corners, accelerate, and stop slowly and smoothly – remember that the horses are standing up back there! Don’t drive for more than four hours without stopping somewhere you can unload the horses and give them a rest, stretch and something to drink, along with checking for injuries and making sure that nothing is wrong with the trailer.

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12. Park again. Follow the instructions above, and remember to avoid surfaces such as pavement that can be slippery for horses.

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13. Unload your horse. Untie him, re-attaching lead rope. You can back them out, or if you have a stock trailer allow them to turn around. Tie them to the trailer or other safe place, and remember to check them for injuries, take off their wraps/boots, and offer them water (but keep in mind that you must offer them small amounts at a time). You’re ready to start riding!

1. Have somebody in the boat use the boat motor to help push you out. Be sure the prop will not hit anything and that the boat is well attached to the trailer. Be sure to stop the boat motor as soon as the prop leaves the water.

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1. Get your boat off the trailer. (rarely do people have problems getting off the ramp once the boat is off the trailer.)

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2. Check to see if everything is ready for road travel, things like making sure your boat is properly locked to the trailer so it won’t fall off while being towed.

1. Get as much as you can into the bed of the truck for added weight over the rear wheels for better traction. People are a good help to sit in the bed right over the wheels. People have more weight than other things you’d usually have on hand.

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1. Again, put things right over the rear wheels if possible. SUVs already have more weight over the rear wheels because it’s not just an open bed.

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2. Get in your vehicle and put it in drive while holding the brake so your vehicle won’t go backwards into the lake.
3. Slowly give the vehicle gas, still holding the brake just enough so you want roll backwards.
   • If your rear wheels start spinning try to get more weight in the back if possible.
   • If all else fails then you’ll have to do a burnout to get the tires hot so they will stick to the ramp better.

1. Put the car in 1st gear. On Automatic cars just put the Shift Handle all the way down to 1 or L in some cars.
   • Give it gas and hold the brake a little too so you won’t slide back into the water.
   • Give enough gas to get the wheels spinning real fast but don’t over rev your engine. Watch the RPM meter to make sure it doesn’t redline.
   • Shortly your vehicle should start inching forward up the ramp. If you’re still not moving then let off the gas and hold the brake. Then slowly give it gas trying not to burnout.
     If all this fails then you’ll need to find someone that’s capable of pulling you out.

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1. Load up your boat.

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2. Make sure everything is ready for towing.
3. Put your vehicle in 4WD. 4WDL will help too, it’s a lower gear so it will help give you torque for climbing the ramp hill.

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4. Put the vehicle in drive and give it gas to get up the hill. If 4WD isn’t enough, load as much as you can into the back of the vehicle for more traction and get as much weight out of the boat as you can so it will be easier to pull out.

1. Get a breakfast cereal box.
    

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2. Cut it up.

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3. Make a sketch of what each side of the trailer will look like.

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4. Using a pencil, draw the outline shape on one of the sides of the box.

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5. Remember that one side won’t have a door (a few caravans did have doors both sides, but most don’t).

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6. Use the bare, unprinted side of the cardboard for the outside.
   • This is easier to draw on and paint sticks to it much better because the primer soaks in and seals it as well.

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7. Once you’ve got the outline of one side of the caravan, use it as a template, and draw round it on the other piece of cardboard so you’ll have the other side of the caravan.

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8. Mark out where the window holes need to be cut, and door for whichever side it’s going on. Most have the door on what would be the passenger side of a car.

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9. Decide if you want an opening door or not. For a ‘pretend’ one, score out the shape using an empty ballpoint pen. The same pen can also be used to make any rivet marks (as you’d have on an old caravan).

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1. Next, make the floor. Getting the caravan in proportion is important, and it’s easy to make the floor too narrow. Test this with a few bits of paper to make sure it’s how you want it. Very thick cardboard is good for this like cardboard from a ring binder folder. Be extremely careful not to amputate any fingers when cutting this. It does take a bit of time because you need a decent sharp Stanley knife. Scissors are not ideal because they will bend or crease this thick cardboard, or the scissors may even break.

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2. Once you have the floor shape cut out, you need to stick balsa wood all around the outside shape for both sides of the caravan. Follow the shape as closely as possible. When it’s done, allow the glue to set, and then sandpaper off any excess so you’ve got a smooth shape (like it was before you added the balsa wood.

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3. Next job is the front and back ends of the caravan. These are easy, as it’s just straight edges with holes for the windows. This can be just done with cereal box cardboard for now.

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4. Glue the sides to the floor. Allow the glue to set well before attempting to stick the ends on. And make sure the sides are aligned correctly before gluing the ends on, or the caravan might look like a crooked house or an insurance write off.

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5. By now it’s probably starting to resemble a caravan. Now you have a choice. Do you want this caravan to have an interior or not. If you have the time and inclination, go for it. If not, it will look fine anyway, but you need to make some curtains. If you’re going for an interior, plan it now. Definitely don’t wait until you’ve stuck the roof on.

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6. Cut a piece of balsa to fit across the top of each end of the caravan. Glue this in and you’re ready to start putting in the roof beams. These are the same size and length as the two you’ve just glued in at the top of either end. (parallel to the ends). 5 is a good amount. Distribute them evenly spaced apart all along the length of the roof. After this is done, you can cut sections of cardboard to use as the roof. If you want authenticity, and have a steady enough hand to cut very narrow strips of cardboard trim, do it. Also, this trim is good for covering up the joins in different sections of cardboard used to make the roof.

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7. It’s best to wait until the caravan is finished and painted before making curtains or windows. This saves getting dust or paint on them. It’s slightly tricky to fix curtains in position once the roof is on, but if you’ve got this far, you’ll manage.

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8. When the main body of the caravan is finished, make the ‘A’ frame. For strength, it can be made to run far enough under the caravan so the suspension can attach to it, but it isn’t essential.

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9. Caravan models can have cardboard wheels, but if you made more than one caravan, you might get bored because of the time it takes to make each one individually. Make a mould of one, using plastic padding car body filler, and then use glass fibre resin. Pour into the mould. The only problem with this is that it’s hard to stop the resin from sticking so well to the mould that it breaks when you try to separate them. Use Copydex glue, painted into the mould, as this helps to get the wheel out afterwards.

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10. Paint everything with primer. Once it’s properly dried, and if you want a nice smooth finish, lightly rub it down with some fine (1000 or 1200 grade) wet and dry sandpaper.

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11. Then the nice bit. Putting on the top coat. Take care to get rid of all the dust before you do this, or it will show through the paint and spoil the finish.

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12. Windows can be made by simply cutting the shape from clear plastic. To make them look like they have frames, cut thin strips of masking tape, and stick this around the outside edges of the plastic. You will need to do this on the inside as well as the outside because the glue holds them in better if there is masking tape on the inside where it fixes to the walls of the caravan. You can paint the masking tape with aluminum coloured Humbrol paint.

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13. Axle & Suspension: This can be purely functional, or you can make it look realistic as well. The quickest and easiest way is a single phone card with a piece of coat hanger wire attached. Put a slight bend in the phone card. A cigarette lighter works well for this, but you may have to experiment with a few until you get it right. Make two holes in one end of the card, attach the axle to the other. Fit the wheels. Fix them on (and to stop them coming off) using small strips of electrical wire insulation. You can expand this so it fits properly by sliding it over a wooden cocktail stick. A brief bit of heat from a lighter helps it to stay the size you need it to be. Once the wheels are on and you’re happy that they’re in the right position, you can put a tiny bit of glue on to hold them, but this is optional.

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14. Line up the suspension / axle assembly under the caravan. When the wheels are lined up with the wheel arches, mark the position, and then glue it on. To give it some extra strength, you could glue a layer of cereal box cardboard over this to hold it. You could use very short self tapping screws to hold this on.

1. 

   Consider whether there are there any semi-permanent lodgings on the grounds not owned by the campsite. This will vary from country to country but many campsites do rent plots to owners of chalets or log cabins. This is very important as the following points indicate.
2. 

   Don’t make the assumption that if you buy a campsite you will own everything you see.
3. 

   Find out what the terms and conditions are for the owners of those chalets; in short how long are you legally obliged to continue to rent out the space to that particular owner? Do you have the right to change the rental rate? Under what terms could you evict a problematic client.
4. 

   Be open to having such tenants. Clients of this nature often represent a desirable and steady income – the benefit in terms of peace of mind of a reasonable guaranteed income, rain or shine, cannot be underestimated when you are making monthly repayments on your business loan.
5. 

   Find out whether such chalets have their own toilets and showers, otherwise they may be counted as users of your toilet facilities and therefore limit the number of visitors you can accept for a given star rating. This is an very important issue that is the subject of the next section.

1. 

   Be conscious that star ratings vary from country to country, region to region and indeed from camping organisation to organisation. For instance, you may have a two star with the local authorities and have a three star in a particular camping guide. Star ratings usually take into account the number of toilets and showers available to a given number of guests; for instance, one toilet to twenty people might deliver a two star and one toilet to forty people might deliver a one star. Be aware then that expansion of the campsite without similar expansion of facilities may lower your star rating.
2. 

   Be realistic. Unfortunately many camping authorities give star ratings for facilities that campers are not interested in, so don’t be surprised to find a campsite littered with table tennis tables that no-one is using – the owner is probably just “chasing stars”.

1. 

   Note whether there a swimming pool on the campsite. If so, then does it conform to local regulations? Is the equipment in good order with evidence of maintenance? Local regulations may stipulate that the pool is surrounded by a childproof fence and also that a qualified lifeguard is on duty when the pool is open. Fully researching this issue properly is an absolute must. For instance, in Italy a full time “pool boy” or bagnini is required for any campsite pool. This raises issues of needing to employ an additional employee with the associated running costs. However, in Denmark no such provision is required. Prospective buyers in the US are advised to consult state authorities.
2. 

   Understand what pool ownership involves. A pool may be a must in hot locations but do not underestimate the work or commitment involved in running a clean, legal and safe pool for your clients. What is the peak season temperature of the water without any additional heating? Will you need heating and if so is solar an option?
3. 

   Be pragmatic. Not all campers consider a pool a bonus, those seeking a quiet retreat often view pools as a bonus in terms of an additional facility but as a negative in terms of attracting other campers of a noisier disposition. Some campers on balance actually seek out campsites that lack certain amenities that are judged to be attractions for a different sector of the market.

1. 

   Learn what the local rules or regulations demand. Once again this will vary from country to country but the types of things you need to think about include the width of roads and the passable width of any gates. Emergency vehicles will need to turn around when they exit the campsite; the ‘turning circle’ of a fire fighting vehicle is not small. It is worth talking to the local fire-fighting agency to find out what is required for the larger fire-fighting emergency vehicles. At the same time, get any oil or gas fuel tanks checked over and ensure any required permits are in place.
2. 

   Find out what your obligations are in terms of simple First Aid and public fire-fighting equipment and training. Don’t assume that the existing owner has ticked all the boxes – the authorities will not excuse any serious omission on your part, on account of the conduct of the previous owner.
3. 

   Check out what local taxes or fees you may be eligible for. In many countries, businesses pay higher rates for services than private homes.

1. 

   Consider whether permits have been obtained for the number of spaces or pitches already operated. Similar with any semi-permanent buildings.
2. 

   If you plan to expand the campsite, talk to the relevant authorities before purchase. It is not just a matter of permission for more pitches – it is also a matter of what obligations you may have in terms of upgrading existing infrastructure, electricity supply, water supply, sewerage, access, security, health and safety. For instance, the electrical supply may only be sufficient for the electric current demand of the existing number of pitches so existing cable work may need replacing.
3. 

   Remember that sewerage does not travel uphill, at least not without specialist sewerage pumps, so you need to consider the existing layout when considering expanding into areas of differing elevations. Is the capacity sufficient for current use and any expansion plans? Has the system been inspected by the relevant state or local authorities – have they issued any demands for improvements and, if so, how long would you have to comply and how much would it cost?
4. 

   Find out who the most important camping bodies and organisations are for the relevant country. Most will have a website or year book; check if to see if the campsite is listed and if so, what comments and ratings are given. Most large camping organisations also have inspectors who visit sites – find out what they are looking for when they rate a campsite. For instance, a certain governing body in Europe stipulates a minimum shower cubicle width as a condition for a certain star rating – if cubicles have already been built but are too small, then obtaining higher star ratings may prove expensive. You could choose to view the inspector’s demands as a hurdle to jump but actually he only represents the wishes of the majority of campers in the organisation he represents, so really his comments should be seen as valuable commercial advice – ignore the wishes of your campers at your peril!

1. 

   Don’t buy a campsite until you have slept in it a few nights – seriously! Take your tent or your camper van (or RV in America) and stay for a few nights. Use the toilets, showers, and the facilities and ask yourself if you would stay there yourself? Try and time your morning visit to the washrooms and toilets to be right in the middle of peak demand – this when you will get to see if the existing infrastructure can handle demand and whether the mood in the air is satisfaction or impatience and frustration. Remember that these people are potentially your future clients, so you need to get inside their heads and understand exactly how they feel about this campground.
2. 

   Get chatting to other users of the site. Some may be regular clients who can tell you a lot of useful information about the campsite and also the surrounding attractions – how many times have they returned and what keeps them coming back? Regulars will be able to tell you whether there are any noise issues or similar disturbance problems associated with the immediate area that might be a problem. Do not base your decision to buy a campsite on one overnight stay; spend a week or longer if you can.
3. 

   Be aware of any seasonal issues. Floods, storms, nuisance insects such as army ants or mosquitoes, etc. can be an issue. Familiarise yourself with regional climate and animal or insect life that may affect your clients.

1. 

   Be aware that one of the primary considerations for anyone thinking of buying a campsite, hotel or other small tourist business is that you must know your market. This includes knowing your clients’ age ranges, whether they are families or retired couples, and understanding their idea of a perfect vacation. If this aspect of research does not interest you, it is recommended that you re-consider whether a small tourist business is really a good choice for you.
2. 

   Know your target market and what their standards are. For instance, in continental Europe the Dutch are very keen campers but they are also known for their expectation of high standards of cleanliness. As such, you will not penetrate this lucrative sector of the market without spotless toilets and very regular cleaning schedules.
3. 

   Look around to find out what the main attractions are in the area. Beach, sea, mountains or cultural cities? How does this affect the type of client and their duration of stay? Do most people stay a week or are they passing through. Neither is necessarily best; a steady stream of people staying only two nights on their way to some other destination might be a very good line of business but it will mean you spend more time settling arrivals into their allotted pitches.
4. 

   In the initial author’s experience, some campsite businesses do very well in areas that seem rather unremarkable. This might be because there does seem to be a type of camper who just enjoys being in a field, cooking on a barbeque and enjoying fresh air. However it is considered that such a prospect is at best risky and should only be considered on the evidence of several years worth of financial figures. In general, the first maxim for tourist businesses does apply to campsites equally well and that maxim is: “location location location”.

1. 

   Never buy a tourist business while only looking at it as a lifestyle business, namely, with a view to your personal lifestyle. Always take the view of your customer – ask yourself the question would you come and stay as a paying customer?
2. 

   It is usual for small family run campsites to come with a house for the owner to live in. Some naive buyers fall in love with a great deal on the house and forget that the rest of the campsite has no really strong attraction for the camper.
3. 

   Another way to summarise what is being said here? Think of your customer first and then consider your private living circumstances second; the reverse priority is unlikely to favour your long term financial prospects. Few people get rich running small campgrounds or hotels. Those who do get rich usually do so by massive expansion and end up leaving what may be called the lifestyle end of this business sector. In general if you favour quality of life above financial income you have a more realistic view.

1. 

   Get the relevant professional advice to establish the legal boundaries of the campsite. Don’t trust wire fences or wooden fences. Urban houses tend to have very well defined boundaries but visual indications of boundaries on a campsite may be misleading. If the previous owner has constructed anything of a permanent nature, or relies on access that transgresses a boundary, you may be in for complications.
2. 

   Consider the road or track leading up to your campsite as your lifeline. Make sure you understand who owns the road and what protection you have for the continued access of your clients. Is the road easily passable in all weather conditions that are likely to occur during tourist season? Find also how service pipes exit the campsite, they may well travel alongside or underneath the service road.

1. 

   Arrange to talk to a local figure of political authority, such as a mayor, councilor or politician. Take the opportunity to find out whether the local authorities are supportive of the business. In many cases, local authorities are keen to encourage tourism and you will find a favourable response. You may find yourself applying for permits from these people, so it’s important that they look favourably on you and your business.

1. 

   Check out the local competition, in particular any sites run by local government, council or authority, as these may have very competitive rates, superior advertising muscle and high standards.

1. 

   Provide food options. Food is a big subject but starting out from the customer’s point of view, a lot of campers would like the option of restaurant food and also appreciate somewhere that they can cook for themselves. There are advantages and disadvantages to getting into the restaurant side of things; for one thing, you will need to ensure that cooking and eating areas meet local regulations and even if you franchise out the responsibility of cooking, you will still be the person who is responsible overall. There is a twofold advantage to supplying food: firstly, your revenue will increase on account of direct sales but secondly, you will generally attract more campers if you provide food.
2. 

   If you are not keen on being responsible for a restaurant yourself, then another option is to buy your campsite within easy reach of existing restaurants and then form a co-operative relationship with these businesses.Distance will, of course, be the main factor here – people will tend to want to be able to stroll to a restaurant in the evening, especially if they are drinking alcohol, so the acceptable range may be only one or two miles or kilometres.
3. 

   Have refrigeration storage options available. Many campers consider some form of refrigeration essential. Camper vans or RVs will have their own fridges but those in tents will appreciate somewhere to keep their milk fresh. A recent online poll conducted by the authors on a European website showed that refrigeration was one of the most important considerations for those staying in tents.

1. 

   In most cases the revenue generated from campers in tents is much lower than that collected from RV owners (in Europe these are known as campervans) and caravans. However it’s always worth catering for those who favour canvas.
2. 

   One point to note is that those sleeping in tents often feel very uncomfortable when large vehicles are moving around in their vicinity, especially if they are still asleep in the morning. Consider adding physical barriers to ensure that vehicles and tent occupants remain at a distance from one another – it’s much easier to relax inside a tent when you feel that you cannot be accidentally driven over. Incidents are rare but it is a common psychological discomfort if you care to ask tent owners.

1. Practice backing the trailer. Backing boat trailers is essential to the powerboat loading process. The biggest key is to go slowly, which can be difficult when many other boaters are waiting to use the ramp. For this reason, it makes sense to practice somewhere else. Take your trailer (with or without the boat) to an empty parking lot and practice backing until you are comfortable.

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2. Ask questions. Your relationship with your boat dealer shouldn’t end when you drive off the lot. Ask for specific tips about loading your powerboat.

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1. Back the trailer slowly onto the ramp. If possible, have a helper ensure you are centered on the ramp and backing straight.

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2. Stop when the wheels are almost completely covered by water. The precise position depends on your boat, but this is a good starting point.

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3. Put the car in park and set the emergency brake.

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4. While piloting the boat, on the final approach to the trailer, pay special attention to wind, currents and waves that can easily pull your boat off course and into a collision course with another boat or dock. Anticipate the direction of these forces and steer into them to offset their effects on the direction that your boat will travel with the idea towards landing squarely between the rails of your trailer.

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5. Pilot the boat slowly towards the trailer, alternating between a slow idle, neutral and reverse if necessary.

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6. Drive the boat onto the trailer until it is close enough to attach the winch hook to the handle on the bow of the boat. Drivers who are inexperienced at powerboat loading tend not to give the boat enough gas when driving onto a trailer. Don’t be afraid to drive what feels to be a little too fast.

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7. Attach the winch hook to the handle. Working as a team, the powerboat driver should slowly drive the boat forward while the assistant cranks the winch.

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8. Stop when the bow of the boat is touching the winch.

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9. Secure the boat to the trailer. You will make sure your boat is safely attached to the trailer with different clips and straps depending on the make and model of both your boat and your trailer. Be sure to check your boat owner’s manual to be sure you are attaching the boat to the trailer correctly.

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10. Take out the drain plug. The drain plug at the stern of the boat needs to be in when you are in the water, but excess water will drain out of the boat if you remove the plug before you drive away.

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11. Very slowly drive the tow vehicle with trailer and boat forward and out of the water. Boat ramps can be slippery with moss and algae and it is important to not let the vehicle’s tires spin. If your tow vehicle is equipped with four-wheel drive, this can be useful if your back tires start spinning.

1. 

   Whether you are 18 or 81, most community colleges offer welding classes you can attend. Community college class fees are very inexpensive.
2. 

   Go to your local community college and ask for a class schedule that lists all the different classes that they offer.
3. 

   Take a walk around the campus and check out its welding facilities to help determine if welding is something that you would be interested in.
4. 

   Find out when the welding class ends for the day and talk to the instructor who teaches it. Usually, they are more than willing to answer your questions and give you a basic description of the class and what you will be able to do after completing it.
5. 

   Learn on your own. If you have access to a welder and some metal, you may want to attempt to learn welding on your own.
6. 

   Buy, borrow or rent a welder. For simplicity, we will look at a standard AC arc welder using welding rods.
7. 

   Obtain your welding rods (electrodes). Welding rods are sold according to their intended use and are usually identified by a coded number. A ¹⁄₈ inch (0.3 cm) 6011 rod is a mild steel electrode. This electrode is designed to use Alternating Current (AC) or Direct Current Electrode Positive (DCEP).This is a good rod to use for learning about basic welding using practice steel.
8. 

   Find some mild steel to practice with. It should be clean, unpainted and ungalvanized and thick enough that you will not easily burn through it when welding. A good piece of steel to start with is a 6″ X 6″ X 3/8″ piece of flat stock, but just about any scrap of flat plate or angle will work.
9. 

   Set your piece of steel on a clean, dry, level surface which is heat resistant and nonflammable. Ideally, use a welding table, if one is available. If you end up having your workpiece on the ground, clear away any flammable items from the area.
10. 

    Attach your ground clamp. This is usually an uninsulated copper clamp from the welder. Make sure it has a good contact, is firmly clamping the metal and is out of the way of the welding process.
11. 

    Put on your welding gloves. You will be practicing without the welder powered up, but getting used to the feel of the electrode holder (stinger) by practicing with gloves on will make the transition easier once the welder is powered up.
12. 

    Insert the “clean end” (the end without the powder flux coating) of your electrode into the electrode holder. The stinger is a high amperage, insulated clamp with a handle you will be holding while welding. It should have grooves in the “jaws” to hold the electrode in either a 180, 45 or 90 degree position to the handle.
13. 

    Practice “striking” the electrode against the welding stock (the sample metal you will be welding on). You will want the end of the electrode to hit the metal and pull back about ¹⁄₈ inch (0.3 cm), so the “arc” will strike, or begin. By practicing with the welder off, you will “feel” the metal and be able to watch the tip to become familiar with how far to pull back after you contact the metal. Sustaining the “arc flame” will require you keep the end of your electrode very near the metal without actually touching it, which takes a bit of practice.
14. 

    Set the temperature range (or amperage) of your welder to about 80A (amps).
15. 

    Put on your safety glasses and welding hood (or helmet, as it is sometimes called), with the dark lens flipped up to allow you to see. Some hoods do not have a hinged lens, so you will have to push the whole helmet up. Most helmets are hinged at the headband also, to allow you to do this, and keep the helmet in the up position while you are replacing your electrode or working on the metal.
16. 

    Turn the welder on. The electrode is now energized with 80 amps of electricity at about 28 volts and is very dangerous. Do not touch any uninsulated parts of the stinger while the welder is on. You may install new electrodes with a dry gloved hand by gripping it where it is coated with unbroken flux.
17. 

    Flip the dark lens or full face helmet down before you strike the electrode against the practice metal. You will see a flash when the arc is formed and most likely you will tend to jerk back. This is a natural reaction that will soon subside. You may have to practice striking your arc and moving the rod back quickly several times before you actually are able to sustain a steady arc flame. This is the first step in beginning welding.
18. 

    Move the electrode along the surface of the metal slowly, watching the pool of molten metal beneath the arc flame. You will have a more consistent weld bead if you weave or move the electrode back and forth as you move the electrode along the path of your weld. Usually, the finished weld is about the same width as two electrode diameters. If the electrode used for welding is 1/8″ diameter, without the flux, the completed weld should be approximately 1/4″ ( 2/8″ )wide.
19. 

    Run your bead an inch or so along the metal, then pull the electrode back to break the arc.
20. 

    When you raise your shield, to look at your weld and evaluate it, you must have your safety glasses on. This is where people get hot slag in their eye if the glasses are not worn under the shield. Looking at your weld bead, is it straight? Is it uniform in width? Is the height of the bead uniform?
21. 

    Use a chipping hammer (or other tool) to knock the slag (oxidized metal and melted flux) off the bead to see the new metal you have deposited from the welding rod. Safety glasses are essential when chipping the slag, and you may want to either cool the metal or wait for it to cool before doing this. You will want a smooth, even bead (path of new welded metal) on your work piece. If there are bumps, or places where little metal is deposited, it probably means you moved at an irregular speed.
22. 

    Continue practicing on pieces of scrap metal, using the same rods and amperage setting, until you get a good, consistent bead.
23. 

    Try joining two pieces of metal by welding. You will want to “prep” the surfaces to be joined by grinding an angle on each side to form a “v” where they meet and clamp them together to hold them in place while you weld.
24. 

    Experiment with other rods (electrodes) and amperage to see the different effects you get. Thicker metal requires more amperage and larger diameter rods, while thin metal requires lower amperage and smaller diameter rods. Special electrodes are available for welding certain steel alloys, cast and ductile iron and aluminum. Electrodes can be found at a local welding shop or home improvement store.
25. Look into other welding processes, such as MIG (metal, inert gas) with solid and flux-core wire, or TIG (tungsten, inert gas) and oxyacetylene.
    • MIG.
      
    • TIG.
      

1. 
   Lay out your basic design. Come up with reasonable and practical requirements, since under building will leave you with less deck space than you need, and overbuilding will send you to Davey Jones’ locker with weight and expense.
2. 

   Choose a practical place to build your project. The first concern should be getting your “ship” to the “harbor” safely, and in one piece. This will mean having a large enough suitable trailer to haul it, and a vehicle capable of pulling it, so a very large craft might be more simply assembled on the water to begin with, if a private waterfront lot or private pond is available.
3. 

   Locate suitable pontoons. Since the vessel must be seaworthy, the flotation is a critical factor in the design. Some scrapyards may have very large PVC water pipe, plastic drums, or even military “drop tanks” from surplus. The drop tanks are ideal, since they are rust resistant, and contain honeycombed baffle material which makes them extremely strong, plus they are “aerodynamic”, which would roughly equal “hydrodynamic”. The main thing is to find something which displaces sufficient water to give flotation and stability to your vessel.
4. 

   Select the material you are going to frame the boat with. For this article, we will use PVC water pipe as the flotation since it may be the most readily available material, and we will discuss attaching the support framing made of 2×4 treated southern pine lumber. The example boat dimensions will be 8 feet (2.4 m) wide, and 16 feet (4.9 m) long. These dimensions are just for reference, and with a little design change, you may adjust them to fit your own needs.
5. 

   Lay two sections of 12 inch (30.5 cm) diameter PVC drain pipe parallel on a flat, level surface, with the ends capped and sealed to keep water out. This can be done with a glued slip cap, or a no-hub band and cap assembly. These materials are quite expensive, so hopefully you will find them in a salvage yard or from surplus materials at an underground utility company. Another possibility would be to make a wooden plug and fasten it in place using epoxy and screws.
6. 

   Cut 8 foot (2.4 m) long 2X4 treated pine boards 7 foot 9 inches (22.9 cm) long, and lay them out down the length of your pipe on 24 inch (61.0 cm) centers.
7. 

   Nail a band across the ends of these “joists”, using a 2X4 treated board 16 feet (4.9 m) long on each side. This is the support frame for your vessel.
8. 

   Using self-drilling, coarse thread, 2 ¹⁄₂ inch (6.4 cm), hex-head “tech” screws, attach a 21 inch (53.3 cm) block of treated 2X4 laid flat between each of your joists to nail the joists to. Two screws per “blocking” should be sufficient.
9. 

   Toenail, or screw the joists to these blocking.
10. 

    Lay a 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 16 gauge galvanized strap diagonally across the top of your deck boards from corner to corner each direction. This is the bracing which will keep the deck “square” during the rest of your building process.
11. 

    Measure the deck across opposite corners and rack it until the measurements are equal at each diagonal.
12. 

    Fasten the strapping to each joist, either by drilling the strapping and nailing with 16d (3 1/2 inch) hot dipped galvanized nails, or screwing with the tech screws used for securing your blocking.
13. 

    Install your deck. You may use 1X4 or 1X6 treated lumber, or treated marine grade plywood. You should choose the driest, least heavy material available, since the two 12 inch (30.5 cm) PVC pipes have a total displacement of only about 1572 pounds, and this will factor in how much superstructure you will be able to build on deck. Using pressure treated yellow pine in the dimensions quoted here, you have a gross weight of approximately 600 lbs, plus the weight of your pipe pontoons. As you can see, at this point you have a maximum load weight of about 900 pounds, so this will limit the on deck construction to very light materials and minimal gear.
14. 

    Decide on whether you will need a shelter for overnight excursions. This will be a critical factor in whether you decide on extra flotation or upgrading your design to a larger pontoon size, 16, or even 24 inch (61.0 cm) pipe, for example. For basic camping, a small tent can be erected on the deck, using screws or even nails in place of tent stakes.
15. 

    Consider safety. This step should be incorporated in every aspect of the construction and use of your boat. The idea here, is giving some thought as to who will be riding the craft. Small children, people who are not capable swimmers, and other persons who may be at risk of drowning should be a high priority of concern, and you may choose to install handrails for safety around the deck. The options here include, but are not limited to, using schedule 80 ³⁄₄ inch (205.1 cm) PVC pipe with glued slip joint couplings for posts and rails, using metal pipe posts with rope or cable rails, or building a wood handrail framed up from and screwed to the deck.
16. 

    Launch your new boat. If you have built near the water, you may simply jack the boat up, slide dollies under the pontoons, and slide it into the water. Otherwise, you will need to use jacks to lift it high enough to back a flat bed trailer underneath it, tie it down securely, and haul it to a launching point.

Decide what type of trailer you want to build. Their advantages and disadvantages are as follows:

• Two wheel trailer: greater load capacity, but only stable at fairly low speeds. The connection is also more complicated, as the coupling must allow the bicycle to move both left and right and to tilt. The cost is also higher, due to the trailer requiring two wheels and tires (usually the most expensive parts)
• One wheel trailer: greater high speed stability but restrictive load capacity. The connection is easier to make — the trailer tilts with the bicycle. One wheel trailers are also cheaper to build as you only need one wheel and tire.

1. 

   Build the main body. Use 4 pieces of 1 X 2 lumber. Make a ladder type frame by using 90 degree brackets and screw everything in.
2. 

   Find 16″ wheels (preferably recycled ones). Attach them to the frame using electric box cover plates bent into shape as shown. You can use bigger wheels if you want to get the trailer even height with the bike so nothing falls off.
3. 

   Attach a trailer arm. Use a malleable metal bar (e.g. from a used, cheap car bicycle rack). Bend and cut the piece into shape. Flatten and drill holes at each end. Bolt the finished arm to the frame tightly.
4. 

   Construct the hitch. Fold an electrical cover plate in half. Make a hole and bolt it onto the wheel and frame of the bike. Then bolt an eye bolt on that bracket. (Put some electrical tape over the eye bolt to soften or remove the clanking noise that is inevitable with this set-up.) Use a U-clamp (also called a shackle) to connect the trailer arm to the eye bolt.
5. 

   Screw a piece of appropriately sized and precut plywood to the top of the frame. Add some eye screws along the edges for bungee cords to hold your cargo in place, if need be.
6. 

   Test drive your trailer carefully. Start with no cargo, then work your way up. Practice turns and acceleration. Inspect all the screws and bolts to make sure they’re staying in place. For best the best way to avoid loose bolts use lock nuts.

1. Choose your tent size.
   • Determine how many people and how much gear you’ll be traveling with and what kind of use you need the tent for. Tents are advertised as two-person, four-person, six-person and so on. This is the maximum number of people that can sleep in closely with no room for personal gear. This rating method makes sense for backpackers who are traveling light, but is terrible for all others. Divide the advertised rating by two, and you will have a more realistic tent capacity. Therefore, most four man tents are only comfortable for two adults, or perhaps two adults and two small children and a pet.
     
   • Plan for a minimum of 25 square feet of floor space per person. Make this even higher for longer camping trips, unless reduced weight is important.
     
   • Consider actual length and width. If you are six feet tall, you will need a space of at least seven feet to stretch out and not be crammed against the tent sides. You will need at least two and one half feet in width just for sleeping. This equals only 17.5 square feet. A “two-person” tent might be advertised which measures four by seven feet. An eight by eight foot tent is ideal for two adults. You will have enough space for cots or a double air mattress, plus space to stand up when changing clothes. Kids can fit comfortably in smaller tents. Once they are old enough, they will probably want to sleep in a separate tent anyway. Parents will appreciate the privacy provided by this arrangement too. A four by seven foot tent is adequate for children. Teenagers should be considered as adults when fitting a tent.
     
   • Add space for clothing, and a space to sit up without crawling over your tent-mate, which will result in a more livable situation. Think more like eight by eight feet as a basic two man family camping tent. This gives you 32 square feet per person.
     
   • Be cautious about tents that are larger than 8’x8′. Large family tents are bulky and heavy, so they should not be considered for backpacking, bicycling or motorcycling. Family tents often have removable fabric walls inside to form rooms for privacy. They also have generous space for camp furniture such as cots and chairs. Their main advantage is generous space and sizable windows and doors, which provide great ventilation. Some even come with smaller pet doors and small porches (vestibules). However, large family tents are more difficult to find a big enough spot to set up. Big tents can also be heavy and hard to carry to your campsite, so they should only be considered for car camping. Third, bigger tents are harder to heat and keep warm on cold days because of their interior volume. Fourth, bigger tents can be less stable in high winds unless guy lines are used. Fifth, large tents are more difficult and time-consuming to set up. Occasionally, pitching a large tent can be a two-person operation. Consider bringing several smaller ones instead for large groups.
     
   • Consider peak inside height. For car camping and most trips where carrying the tent is not a consideration, try to have a tent that is tall enough for you to stand up in. Plan for the taller person in your group. A six or seven foot peak height is helpful for adults, and a four-foot peak is about right for kids. Remember, the tent walls slope downward at a sharp angle, so the actual spot where you can stand up will be small. Larger spaces will be provided in tents with taller peaks. For most backpacking tents, a height of 40 inches (101.6 cm) or more is provided so the occupants can sit up instead of standing up. Some small one-man tents are only slightly bigger than a sleeping bag and sitting up is not an option. Pick the size which best fits your needs and intended purpose. Generally pick the smallest, lightest tent you can live with if you’re backpacking or biking. If you are uncomfortable in small spaces, opt for the larger size.
     

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2. Choose your tent’s shape.
   • Tents come in four basic shapes: A-frame, umbrella, geodesic or “dome”, and wall. The A-frame is the common “pup” tent shape, but can also be quite large. The umbrella is a commonly used family camping tent, as it has lots of standing room, with large windows and a rain fly over the top. The geodesic comes on many shapes, but all look like a combination of connected triangles. The wall tent is like an A-frame tent, but is generally much larger and has vertical sidewalls.
     
   • Tents with square floor shapes are more efficient when laying out sleeping and gear arrangements. Because of other factors, it is not always possible to have a square floor. If you buy a round floor, or nearly round like with the geodesic dome tents, you should allow some extra floor area to make up for the less efficient layout. Dome tents often have hexagonal floors and the triangular corners are usually used for gear storage.
     
   • Doors and windows are important considerations. For hot or humid conditions, choose a tent with generous screened window areas. Make sure your tent has a way to close these windows with a Velcro flap, zippered panel, or drawstring closure. Cheaper tents will not have these options. A tent for two or more people should have two doors on opposite sides so a person can exit the tent without climbing over another person.
     

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3. Choose tent poles.
   • Most tents come with either aluminum or fiberglass poles and most are linked with an elastic shock cord. This helps prevent lost poles and makes the setup faster and easier. Poles can bend or break, so many tent manufacturers provide emergency repair links for you to carry along on the trip.
     
   • Some poles on more complex tents have pivoted joints or bent sections. It’s critical that you understand how to properly set up your tent without applying excess force to the poles to prevent damaging these pivoted joints.
     
   • Always set up your tent first at home as a test before using it in the field. It’s far better to set it up in good conditions first than try to pitch it on a cold, dark, wet night for the first time.
     
     • Usually the maximum pole length will determine the maximum packed length of your tent. Consider this if you will be packing the tent on a bicycle, motorcycle or in a backpack. It is possible to re-section tent poles into smaller lengths so they will pack easier. A professional camping outlet can explain how this it done and sell you the necessary parts or do the work for you.
     • Some tents have inflatable tubes which serve as tent poles. This makes set up and compact packing very simple and easy.
     • Tent poles are attached to the tent in one of three ways: With enclosed channels, clips or hooks or from inside the tent itself. Some good alpine climbing tents will have poles that can be set up from inside the tent, so severe weather is not a consideration. Enclosed channels, which the poles are threaded through, are used on many 4-season tents with full-length flies to minimize air movement between the tents, fly, and provide a smoother, more leak resistant profile. Most modern tents use plastic clips to attach the tent to the poles. This makes the setup and teardown quick, simple, and easy.

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4. Choose a good fabric. Nearly all tents are now made of nylon. Breathable nylon is normally used for tent walls. Coated nylon is used for the fly and floor for waterproofing. No-see-um mesh is used for the window screens. Heavier tents use thicker fabric and rip-stop fabric. Keep in mind that tent weight will increase if you choose thicker and denser fabrics. This may be unacceptable if you have to carry your tent on your bike or back. Remember to pack your tent when dry, if possible. If you must pack a wet tent, open it and dry it as soon as you get home, using Lysol, or other disinfectant spray to prevent mildew.

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5. Test the zippers. They should open and close freely, and should not catch and bind up on the tent fabric. Zippers should not snag on nylon flaps or frayed fabric. Plastic or brass zippers will not corrode. Steel or aluminum zippers may corrode when wet but are stronger. You can lightly lubricate zipper mechanisms with clear spray silicone to keep them in good working order. When setting a tent up always remember to stake the tent out with the zippers closed so the openings will not be tight and difficult to close later.

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6. Seams are often reinforced with nylon tape; however some designs do not require this. The tape is stitched into each seam, and will make the seam stronger and more weatherproof. Waterproof seams in a nylon tent, such as on the fly and floor are waterproofed with a seam sealer or heat sealing process. Your new tent may come with a bottle of seam sealer. Set up the tent in the yard before your trip, and apply the sealer. Let it dry before packing the tent. You should make sure the seams are properly sealed before each trip.

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7. Consider potential weather. Wind, rain, sun, heat and cold all have different demands on the tent.
   • Windy areas require sturdy poles, stakes, and guy lines. Geodesic tents are excellent in wind. Their igloo-like shape reduces the wind resistance and their pole arrangement provides great strength. If your tent comes with a vestibule, be sure to set the tent up so it faces away from the wind.
     
   • Rain creates three considerations. First, keeping the rain out. Second, giving you enough room so you will be comfortable if you have to “weather” the storm by entertaining yourself indoors for a while. Third, providing enough ventilation with the increased humidity to keep everything dry inside the tent.
     
     • Most tents have a waterproof rain fly made of coated nylon or other material. Some high performance backpacking tents use waterproof and breathable wall fabrics so they don’t require a fly. The fly should cover the breathable portions of the tent. Some tent flies will only cover a few inches of the top. Others will extend all the way to the ground. The intended tent use dictates this. The fly should keep out all types of rain, even if it is windy. The fly should extend far enough over the door, so it keeps out the rain when you open the door to enter or leave.
     • The floor should also be waterproof coated nylon. This fabric should cover the floor, and turn up the sides for about six inches or so. There should be as few seams as possible. This is called a “tub” floor. It will keep out any water that runs down and under the tent.
     • Be sure to buy a footprint (groundcloth) to go with your tent. This will not only protect the floor from rocks and debris, but can prevent ground condensation inside the tent if you pitch your tent on a cold, damp site. Many tents are available with a matching footprint that can be snapped or clipped to the bottom of the tent.
   • Sun and heat create the need for shade and airflow. The rain fly will provide shade for the tent. Large screened windows on opposite sides of the tent, or a screened window opposite a screened door, will allow air to flow through the tent to prevent condensation.
     
   • Cold weather brings special needs. Unless you will be dealing with snow (when you would need a mountaineering tent), you can use a “three-season” tent that has good features. The most important features will be a rain fly that covers the top and sides, and an interior layer made from an open mesh fabric to allow water vapor to pass through it. In cool weather, warm water vapor inside the tent, from damp fresh air and moist air you exhale, will condense on the cooler surface of the tent’s exterior. The only way to prevent this is to allow the excess water vapor to escape from the tent by passing through the mesh fabric.
     • The tent size may also be a consideration if you plan to camp in cool weather. Your body heat will keep a small tent much warmer than outside. However, some campers will use a tent heater in their large tent. Heaters are not always safe in small tents due the closeness of the tent walls. If you use a catalytic heater, remember that these consume oxygen and require adequate ventilation. If you do use a heater, remember to open any tent windows or vents to allow air to circulate. In smaller tents in cold climates, consider using a sleeping bag with a colder temperature rating or a safely suspended enclosed candle lantern instead.

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8. Keep cost in mind.
   • In general, the higher priced tents are made with stronger fabric, stronger poles, have stronger stitching and more features. They will withstand higher winds and heavier rain. They will last longer. If well cared for, a good tent can last for many years. However, not everyone needs this strength and durability. In milder and drier climates and close to home (“just in case”) the least expensive tents are good bargains.
     
   • If you are just beginning your family camping adventures and don’t know if you will like camping, then you might want to choose lower cost tents. It is very likely that you will plan your first trips for warm, dry weather and will probably remain close to “civilization” until you gain some experience. You can always upgrade to a better tent later, and keep your original budget tent for when conditions allow.
   • Try to borrow a tent or purchase one used if it is your first time camping.
   • Learn from your experiences with your first tent for when you upgrade to a better one.