For machinery and valuable tools, you would not only want it sturdy, but also enclosed and secure to prevent theft.

The vehicle that you will use to pull the utility trailer will also help determine the dimensions. For example, a utility trailer to haul groceries behind a bicycle will necessarily be much smaller than a utility trailer for a Suburban, built to haul a table saw.

Gather the materials and tools.Working according to a utility trailer plan will help you gather the right components. Once you have located a source for the materials, check with the customer service representative to arrange delivery. If you are a skilled welder and have the equipment you’ll need, follow the manufacturer’s recommended safety and procedural instructions.

Most designs consist of a bed, a hitch, a “tongue” (the wedge shape that extends from the front), an axle with wheels, taillights, and a license plate frame.

Many of the components for utility trailers (tongue, hitch, axle, jack, and taillight assembly) can be purchased fully assembled, allowing for easier construction.

Weld the angle iron rods together for the bed frame. Assure the corners are squared.

Weld support beams made of flat iron across from side to side.

Bolt pressure-treated 2×6 inch (5.1 X 15.2 cm) boards to the frame, parallel with the sides inside the lip of the angle iron.

Cut lumber with a circular saw. Drill holes in the angle iron with a variable speed drill and drill-bit designed for metal.

Attach boards to frame bed.

Attach the axle and tires.Use a hydraulic jack to raise up the frame. Block all 4 corners to keep it elevated. Weld the axle under the framing. On a rectangular frame, the axle should be attached with 60 percent of the frame in front and 40 percent in back to distribute the weight of the bed.

• Using the lug bolts and nuts included with the axle kit, install the predetermined sized tires on the axle.

Understand that you may need to have the utility trailer examined and submit it to a safety inspection. Most branch locations for the Department of Motor Vehicles have safety inspection stations on-site.

• Know that if your utility trailer requires a safety inspection that you may be provided with a temporary registration. The length of the temporary registration and the fee is determined by your region’s Department of Motor Vehicles.

 Put your trailer roof/top up 6–12 inches (15.2–30.5 cm) so you can work on it.

 

Scrape off the old glue residue from the roof edge with a putty knife or razor blade.

 You will need about 41 feet (12.5 m) of new seal for the largest of the Coleman Popup Trailers.

(Available on Amazon or eBay: just do a search for “Coleman Roof Seal”)  As you go along, put a 1/8″ bead of adhesive into the groove of the new seal.  One good choice is 3M 3008 Super Weatherstrip Adhesive.

 

 Starting from the center back of the trailer press the new seal onto the roof edge.

If needed use a rubber mallet to gently tap the new seal securely onto the roof edge.  Continue all around the trailer until you meet back at your starting point.  Then cut the remaining seal to fit flush against the starting edge of your seal.

 

Get up close and personal with your trailer wheel. The actual size of the rim is imprinted on the face of the wheel, right around the outer lip. It may also be on the backside of the rim. A lot of times when the wheel is painted, the paint will fill in this stamping. When this happens it becomes difficult to read, but at the correct angle is still possible.

If you cannot locate the size stamped in the rim, keep reading!

Start with the tire size. On the sidewall of the tire will be a tire size, Usually written in a standard format. ( 205/75D15 )

• The last number in the tire size is your rim Diameter. So we are looking for a 15″ rim! Were half way done, hope I didn’t loose anyone yet !

Get the second number. So you need a second number now, because 15″ rims generally come in 15×5, 15×5.5, 15×6 or even 15×7.

• The Second number of the rim size is the width. Measured from where the bead sits on one side of the rim, to where it sits on the other.
  • Wheel Offset – The distance between the wheel centerline and the mounting pad.
  • Backspace – The distance between the mounting pad and the outer most part of the wheel’s drum side.
  • Wheel Centerline – The absolute center of the wheel.
  • Bolt Circle Diameter – The diameter of the bolt-holes.
  • Wheel Diameter – The wheel’s diameter where the tire’s bead mounts and creates a seal.
  • Mounting Pad – The portion of the wheel that butts up against the hub face.
  • Drum Side – The side of the wheel facing the trailer drum.
  • Street Side – The visible side of the wheel when mounted correctly.